Beef, Bird and Bag

BY AMBER EASBY

While living in New York, I became a fan of the early dinner. There were two French restaurants in my neighbourhood, both of which had early bird specials. At Robin De Bois, Henry and I would order our own early bird - a roast chicken for two. It was served on a wooden board with green beans and mash. With two glasses of wine, the meal would cost $30 plus tip. At Tabac (not to be confused with the bar on Mills Lane or any store licensed to sell tobacco products in France), I could order an Organic Strip Steak with sautéed spinach and pommes frites for $13.

I was excited when I saw the ‘Early Bird’ sign in the window of Tony’s on Lorne Street. It was 6.30pm – the perfect time for a steak dinner. On a closer look, the discount was nothing to get worked up about: $35 for your entrée and main. Depending on whether you ordered, say, the Shrimp Cocktail ($12) or Crumbed Camembert ($15) to start - it was a $5 saving at best. There was also a review in the window. The writer had taken her hippie/previously vegetarian friend to Tony’s for her first steak in ten years. Maybe it was the review (I love any story about a vegetarian gone bad) or maybe it was the first day of my period, but I wanted a big juicy steak. I convinced Henry we should give it a go, agreeing to his condition of ‘no appetizers’ to keep it cheap. I have been known to over order.

The place was packed and we were the only patrons under the age of sixty. I was surprised that the ‘Early Bird’ special had drawn such a crowd. Then I realised, they all had tickets to the 7.30pm showing of We Will Rock You. The host/proprietor was doing his best to charm the oldies calling them ‘darling’ or ‘young man’. When he took an order, he would ask ‘Rock and Roll for dessert?’

Tony’s on Lorne Street is independently owned and is no longer apart of the John Bank’s affiliated Tony’s Restaurant Group. I got the feeling it was a touchy subject with the proprietor. Like the Tony’s on Wellesley and Lord Nelson on Victoria, this restaurant favours the traditional English pub fittings – leadlight, wrought iron and brass. There were a` lot of lamps, none of which were turned on because it was still light outside. There was a standup piano that hadn’t been used in years. Instead, instrumental versions of songs by Robbie Williams played at a low volume. It was a little creepy.

The waitress came quickly to take our order – we were taking up valuable real estate. We didn’t get much time to peruse the menu and there was a lot to take in. We had to choose our cut, weight (standard or GIANT) and condiment. We also had the choice of baked potato or fries, salad or grilled vegetables.

I have yet to appreciate the Steak/Seafood combo that is kind of joint is known for. I was tempted to give it a whirl until I saw the ‘Carpet Bag’, a tenderloin stuffed with oysters. Repulsed by the name alone, I thought of Tabac and ordered the cut of Prime Scotch Fillet Rib Eye with béarnaise sauce, fries and vegetables ($28.50). Henry ordered the standard Prime Sirloin Striploin with mushroom sauce, baked potato and vegetables ($28.50). We both ordered our steaks medium rare. I caved after a disapproving look from our waitresses and ordered garlic bread to start ($3.00).

I was instantly won over when our steaks were served on hotplates. I love a meal that sizzles! The first bite was a little rare but the steak continued to cook to perfection. The standard size cuts were impressive and the sides were surprisingly tasty. My béarnaise melted into the steak beautifully and had just the right amount of tarragon. Henry said his mushroom sauce was good, not excellent – maybe a 6/10. We both cleaned our plates.

Granted, I could have done without the garlic bread but I left the restaurant feeling invigorated. A meal high in B vitamins and deliciousness was exactly what I needed. The best thing was that we had the rest of the night free - to digest the meaty meal or maybe, take in a show.



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